The polo shirt is a timeless wardrobe essential versatile enough for both casual and semi-formal wear. Sewing your own allows you to customise the fit, fabric, and details while learning valuable knit-sewing techniques. With the right pattern and some patience, you can create a professional-looking polo that rivals ready-to-wear designs.
Skill Level & Time: Confident Beginner–Intermediate, 3–6 Hours
This project is ideal for confident beginners or intermediate sewists who are comfortable with knit fabrics and basic garment construction. Depending on your experience and tools, expect to spend around 3 to 6 hours from start to finish, including cutting, sewing, and pressing.
Fabric & Fit: Piqué or Jersey Knit, Slightly Relaxed Through Chest
Traditional polo shirts use cotton piqué knit, which has a subtle texture and firm structure that holds the collar shape well. You can also use cotton/elastane jersey for a smoother, softer feel. The fit should be slightly relaxed through the chest and shoulders, tapering gently toward the waist for comfort and a flattering silhouette.
Materials & Tools
Fabrics & Notions
To construct a high-quality polo shirt, gather the following materials:
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1.5–2 metres of cotton piqué or cotton/elastane jersey (fabric width around 150 cm)
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0.3–0.4 metres of rib knit for the collar and sleeve cuffs (or a pre-made polo collar)
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Lightweight fusible interfacing suitable for knit or bi-stretch fabrics, used to reinforce the placket area
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2–3 buttons (10–12 mm) in size, preferably matching or contrasting subtly with your fabric
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Matching polyester thread for strength and flexibility
Machines & Needles
A regular sewing machine with stretch or zigzag stitch capability is sufficient, though an overlocker/serger can provide a cleaner finish for seams. Use a ballpoint or jersey needle (size 80/12 or 90/14) to prevent skipped stitches and fabric snags. A walking foot can also be helpful to keep layers feeding evenly when sewing knits.
Pattern & Prep
Choose/Trace the Pattern
Select a polo shirt pattern that suits your desired style classic, slim-fit, or sporty. Trace and cut the following components:
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Front (with placket opening)
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Back
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Sleeves
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Collar
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Sleeve cuffs (optional)
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Pocket (optional)
Include 1 cm seam allowances on all sides and 2–3 cm hem allowances for a neat finish. Ensure that notches and alignment marks are transferred accurately to help with assembly.
Pre-Wash & Block Your Knit
Always pre-wash and dry your fabric exactly as you would care for the finished garment. This prevents unwanted shrinkage later. After washing, square the grain and gently press the fabric to remove any twisting. Blocking the knit ensures it lies flat and cuts true to pattern, which is essential for maintaining even seams and balanced drape once assembled.
Cutting Layout
Align with Greatest Stretch Around the Body
When preparing to cut your polo shirt pieces, always align the pattern so that the greatest fabric stretch runs horizontally around the body. This ensures comfort, flexibility, and a natural fit. Position the front and back pieces on the fabric fold, maintaining accuracy at the centre front (CF) and centre back. For the sleeves, mirror the layout so you end up with one right and one left sleeve.
The collar should be cut from rib knit fabric, with the stretch running horizontally across the neckline to allow comfortable movement. If you are using a self-fabric collar instead of rib knit, remember to cut it double for structure. Lightly interface the placket area on the front piece to prevent stretching and distortion during sewing — this will give your shirt a professional, crisp opening.
Marking & Interfacing
Transfer Placket Lines & Notches
Before removing your pattern pieces from the fabric, carefully transfer all markings using tailor’s chalk or a washable fabric pen. Mark key construction points such as the centre front (CF) line, placket slit, collar notches, shoulder match points, and hem fold lines. Clear markings will make assembly smoother and more precise.
Next, cut a narrow strip of lightweight fusible interfacing, approximately 3–4 cm wide, and fuse it behind the CF placket area. This reinforcement adds stability, especially if you’re working with a soft jersey knit, and prevents the placket from stretching or rippling once buttons are attached.
Sew the Shoulder Seams
Stabilise to Prevent Stretching
Place the front and back pieces right sides together and align the shoulder edges. Stitch the shoulder seams using a stretch or narrow zigzag stitch, maintaining a 1 cm seam allowance. Once sewn, press the seams toward the back for a clean finish.
To prevent the shoulders from stretching out over time, you can reinforce the seam by sewing in clear elastic, stay tape, or a narrow strip of stabilising twill tape along the inside edge before stitching. This step helps the shoulders retain their shape and improves durability through repeated wear and washing.
Construct the Polo Placket
Classic Two-Piece Placket (Clean Finish)
The two-piece placket is the traditional style used in most polos, offering a polished, structured look. Begin by pressing under the seam allowances on both placket strips. Align each strip along the marked centre front on the shirt’s right side. Stitch down the placket pieces following your markings, then carefully slash the CF line up to the base of the placket, stopping precisely at the marked point.
Clip into the corners to release tension, then turn the placket pieces to the inside and press neatly. Overlap the left side over the right, ensuring alignment at the neckline. Finish by edge-stitching around the placket opening for a crisp appearance and bar-tack the base to secure the end of the opening and reinforce durability.
Alternative: Continuous Bound Placket (Faster)
For a quicker option, use a continuous bound placket, commonly found in casual polos or lightweight jerseys. To do this, bind the slit with a single narrow strip of fabric, wrapping it evenly around the edges of the opening. Stitch the binding in place, press it flat, and overlap the sides as you would in the classic placket. Finish with a neat row of topstitching for reinforcement and a professional appearance.
Attach the Collar
Prepare the Collar
Start by joining the short ends of the collar piece with right sides together, using a straight or stretch stitch. Press the seam open to reduce bulk. Next, fold the collar lengthwise, wrong sides together, and press the fold sharply to create a clean outer edge.
Mark quarter points on both the collar and neckline (centre front, centre back, and shoulder points) to ensure even distribution. Align these notches when attaching to prevent twisting or uneven stretching.
Sew On, Then Cover the Seam
With right sides together, pin or clip the collar to the neckline, matching notches carefully. Stitch the collar to the neckline using a narrow zigzag or stretch stitch for flexibility. Once attached, press the seam allowance downward.
To conceal the seam, turn the inner collar edge inward so it just covers the stitch line, then secure it neatly using the “stitch-in-the-ditch” method or a narrow topstitch. This creates a smooth, professional interior finish often referred to as the burrito method, ensuring no visible raw edges.
Insert Sleeves
Flat Insertion (Easier on Knits)
For knits, flat sleeve insertion is both faster and easier than sewing sleeves in the round. With the garment body laid flat and right side up, pin the sleeve cap to the armhole, right sides together. Distribute ease evenly between the front and back notches, being careful not to stretch the armhole too much.
Stitch around the armhole using a gentle stretch stitch, then press the seam allowance toward the sleeve. If you’re using an overlocker, finish the edge neatly to reinforce the seam and prevent fraying.
Close Side & Underarm Seams
One Continuous Seam
Turn the shirt inside out and align the side seams and underarm seams in one continuous line. Starting at the sleeve hem, sew downward through the underarm and along the side seam to the shirt hem in a single pass.
Finish the raw edges with an overlock or zigzag stitch, then press the seam allowances toward the back for a clean silhouette. This continuous seam technique gives the inside of the shirt a smooth, uninterrupted finish and strengthens stress points under the arm.
Add Sleeve Cuffs (Optional)
Rib Cuffs for a Sporty Finish
If your design includes sleeve cuffs, join each rib knit cuff at the short ends to create a loop. Fold the cuff in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, and press to define the folded edge. Mark quarter points on both the cuff and sleeve opening.
With right sides together, align the cuff’s raw edge with the sleeve opening and stretch gently to fit as you sew. Once attached, press the seam allowance toward the sleeve. The result is a snug, sporty cuff that enhances both comfort and style.
Hem the Body
Clean, Stretch-Friendly Hem
To finish the bottom of the polo, turn up a 2–3 cm hem allowance to the wrong side and press well with steam to set the fold. Sew the hem using a twin needle, zigzag, or coverstitch to allow for stretch while maintaining a professional look.
To prevent tunnelling or rippling, slightly loosen your bobbin tension before stitching. Give the hem a final press to flatten the seam and enhance its stretch recovery. The result is a smooth, flexible finish that moves naturally with the fabric completing your polished, handmade polo shirt.
Buttons & Buttonholes
Placement & Stitching
Mark two or three evenly spaced button positions along the placket using tailor’s chalk or a marking pen. The top button should sit comfortably below the collar seam, and the bottom one just above the chest line for balance. Sew vertical buttonholes on the overlap (the placket facing outward) using your sewing machine’s buttonhole function.
Once completed, carefully cut open the buttonholes with a seam ripper or small scissors, inserting a pin across the top to prevent over-cutting. Align the placket layers, then sew the buttons on the underlap directly opposite each hole. Always test the closure to ensure smooth buttoning and a clean finish.
Pocket (Optional)
Add Before Side Seams for Best Accuracy
If you plan to include a chest pocket, it’s best to attach it before sewing the side seams, as this allows easier positioning and topstitching. Press the top hem of the pocket under twice by about 1 cm, then topstitch close to the edge for a tidy upper finish.
Place the pocket on the left chest area, aligning it evenly with the placket and armhole for symmetry. Edge-stitch down the sides and bottom, securing firmly with bar-tacks at the top corners to prevent tearing or distortion over time.
Pressing & Finishing
Final Press & Thread Tidy
Give the entire polo a final press with steam, focusing on the collar roll, placket edges, sleeve cuffs, and hemline. Use a pressing cloth to protect delicate knits or ribbed trims. Trim all loose threads carefully and inspect every seam for neatness.
Check that the placket overlaps evenly, buttons align precisely, and labels or branding are positioned symmetrically. A final light press ensures your polo shirt looks crisp and professionally finished.
Fit & Sizing Tips
Length, Ease & Collar Stand
Aim for the back length to fall around the mid-seat for a tuck-in style or high-hip for a casual, untucked look. For comfort and natural movement, maintain 6–10 cm of ease around the chest.
When adjusting the collar, ensure it has a gentle roll that sits neatly around the neckline without pulling or gaping. A slightly shorter collar stand helps maintain this shape, giving your polo that clean, tailored finish.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
Wavy Seams from Stretch Drag
Wavy seams often result from excessive stretching while sewing knits. To prevent this, use a walking foot, reduce presser-foot pressure, and support the fabric evenly as you feed it through. Avoid pulling or pushing the material let the machine guide it naturally.
Twisting Placket Corners
A common beginner issue is distorted placket corners. Always clip precisely to the stitch line at the placket base before turning it right side out. This releases tension and allows the placket edges to lie flat without puckering.
Stretched Neckline
Over-stretched necklines can make the collar appear loose or uneven. To prevent this, stabilise the neckline and shoulder seams with stay tape or clear elastic during construction. When pressing rib or knit collars, use gentle steam over-pressing can permanently stretch the fabric.
Care & Maintenance
Keep It Crisp
To maintain your polo shirt’s structure and softness, wash in cool water using a gentle cycle. After washing, reshape the collar while damp and dry flat or on a hanger to preserve its form.
If needed, press with a warm iron, focusing on the collar and placket to restore their shape. Avoid over-drying or high-heat tumble cycles, as they can damage the fibres and reduce the fabric’s natural elasticity.
Conclusion
Sewing your own polo shirt combines craftsmanship, creativity, and practicality. By following each step carefully from cutting and placket construction to collar finishing and pressing you can produce a garment that fits beautifully, feels comfortable, and looks professionally made. With practice, you’ll master the balance of structure and softness that defines a perfect polo, making it a rewarding addition to your handmade wardrobe.
FAQs
Q1: What fabric works best for a classic polo?
Ans: Cotton piqué is traditional for breathability and structure, while cotton/elastane jersey gives a softer drape. Aim for 180–230 gsm for a polished result.
Q2: Do I need an overlocker/serger?
Ans: Helpful but not required. A regular machine with a stretch stitch or narrow zigzag, plus trimming and pressing, will yield durable seams on knits.
Q3: Why does my placket pucker?
Ans: Usually over-handling or insufficient interfacing. Fuse a light knit interfacing, stitch accurately to the pivot point, and press don’t stretch the area.
Q4: How do I stop the neckline from stretching out?
Ans: Stabilise shoulder seams with clear elastic or tape, avoid pulling the rib while attaching, and let the collar ease distribute evenly around the neck.
Q5: Can I reuse a T-shirt pattern for a polo?
Ans: Yes, with tweaks: add front placket extension, collar stand length, and ensure the neck opening matches the collar measurements for a clean roll.
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